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VIRGINIA STEAMBOAT gO. 



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FIRST CLASS PASSENGER LINE 

CARRYING U. S. MAIL BETWEEN 

RICHMOND * NORFOLK 

ALL THE YEAR ROUND, 

AND TOUCHING 

prom Apfil 1st to floveimbei* 1st, at 

OLD POINT COMFORT, 

(FORTRESS MONROE) 

THE GREAT FASHIONABLE 

X — 

James River by Day-Light. 



The richest river in America in Colonial and War Scenery. Steainers 
pass through DUTCH GAP CANAL, (Butler's) and in full view of McCiJel- 
lan's Landing, Fort Darling, Jamestown (the oldest English settlement 
^— in America), &c., &c. 

4i^This line makes sure connection at Richmond and Norfolk with all 
the rail and steam lines for the 

fiOHTH, UiEST fllSlD SOUTH, 

AND THE MANY 

Celebrated Virginia Springs. 

Through Tickets on sale on board Steamers, and at Ticket Offices through- 
out the United States, at lowest rates. 

J. W. McCARRiCK, Agent, L. B. TATUM, Vice Pres't, 

Norfolk. Richmond. 

IRVIN WEISIGER, F. and P. Agent. 




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WASHINGTON MONUMENT. 



Corner-stone laid 22d February, 1850. Equestrian Statue unveiled 22d 
February, 1858. Total cost, §259,913. 



Sixth Edition — Revised and enlarged every year. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST 



A BRIEF ACCOUNT 



-OF- 



HISTORICAL LOCALITIES 



-ON- 



JAMES RIVER 



AND SKETCHES OF 



f^iohmond, ]\forfoll^-an<l port$mouth. 

Edited by Wrb. CHESTERMAN. 



Published by LUCIEN B. TATUM, 

Vice President Virginia Steamboat Company, 

Richmond, Vikginia. 



RICHMOND : 

EVERETT WADDEY. PRINTER. 

1889. 



J 






Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1878, 



By LUCIEN B. TATUM, 



In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



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JI^^These Leading Hotels of Virginia are under one 
management. Having been connected by a Covered 
Suspension Bridge, thoroughly renovated and heated 
throughout by steam, can now offer most comfortable 




and home-like accommodations for Six Hundred Guests. 
Rooms can be secured by telegraph or letter, $2.50, |3.00 
and $4.00 per day. 

J. L. CARRINGTON, Proprietor. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 



Preface or Finis.— These lines will welcome the 
coming or speed the parting reader. 

The book begins with Richmond and describes the 
points of greatest interest as the steamer moves on down 
the river. The reader who starts from Norfolk to Rich- 
mond, therefore needs to make " the last first," and begin 
at the end of the book. There will be no difficulty in 
fixing upon the localities mentioned if such person but 
remember to look to the left when the book points him 
to the right or vice versa. 



" The land was beautiful ; 
Fair rose the spires, and gay the buildings were, 
And rich the plains, like dreams of blessed isles." 

Xlie I^ocality of the City of Richmond was visited 
by Captains Newport and John Smith in 1607, the year 
of the settlement at Jamestown, and thirteen years prior 
to the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers on Plymouth Rock. 
In 1609 Captain Francis West and one hundred and 
twenty men were sent here from Jamestown "to settle," 
it was said, but they were little more than troops on an 
outpost, and their sufferings from hunger and Indian 



NEWPORT NEWS, 



NEAR OLD POINT COMFORT, VA. 



^iTHEi^ 




A Family Hotel of Superior Excellence 



FOB THE ACCOMMODATION OF 



WINTER ^ SUMMER VISITORS. 



For terms, Illustrated Pamphlet, etc., 
address C. B. ORCUTT, Wash- 
ington Building, No. i Broad- 
way, New York, or 

J. R. SWII^ERXOI^, i71aiiag:er, 

Hotel Warwick, Newport News, Va. 

(10) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 11 

depredations were great. For very many years the 
actual settlers were few in number. In 1737 Colonel 
William Byrd, of Westover, caused the town to be laid 
off into streets and lots on land belonging to him, and 
in 1742 it was duly incorporated by law. The seat of 
government was transferred from Williamsburg to Rich- 
mond by act of Assembly May, 1779. 

The Colonial and Revolutionary history of Richmond 
is interesting ; but it was as the Capital of the Con- 
federate States, and as such the most prominent point of 
attack and defense in the late war, that its great celebrity 
was obtained. 

The city is built upon many hills, and is remarkable 
for healthfulness ; the streets, with few exceptions, 
intersect at right angles, and the residences are hand- 
some and attractive. The tobacco trade, iron establish- 
ments and flouring mills, employ a large number of men 
and much capital. The shipments of tobacco, coal, flour, 
and products of field and forest generally, are considera- 
ble. There are regular lines of Steamers to Norfolk and 
all points on James river, (this line— the Virginia Steam- 
boat Company), and to New York, Philadelphia and 
Baltimore. The seven railways centering in the city 
stretch out in nearly every direction. Petersburg is 
reached by rail in an hour, Washington in four hours, 
and New York in eleven. Population of Richmond and 
suburbs, 100,000. 

Places at Ridnnond ^vortli Visiting,— The 
Capitol Square is a lovely little park of sixteen acres, in 



^ktion^ 



I 



BANK OF VIRGINIA, 



Corner Main and Eleventh Street, 



/ 



RICHMOND, VA. 



UNITED STATES, 

State and City Depository. 



E. 0. NOLTING, J. W. LOCKWOOD, 

President Cashier. 

(12) 



THE JAMES RIVEB TOURIST. 13 

the heart of the city. In the midst of it stands the 
Capitol building or State House, the corner-stone of 
which was laid August 18th, 1785. The model was the 
Maison Caree of Nismes, France, selected for tlie State 
by Jefferson ; but afterward somewhat altered. The 
marble statue of Washington, made by the great French 
Sculptor, Houdon, from casts taken from the person of 
the Father of His Country, is in the Rotunda.* The 
sessions of the Confederate Congress were held in this 
building. In 1870 the floor of the Supreme Court room, 
in the Capitol building, broke through, killing sixty-five 
persons and wounding about two hundred more. The 
State Library contains an extensive gallery of portraits 
of historical personages, nearly forty thousand volumes, 
and many curious relics. From the platform on the 
roof of the Capitol the very best view of the city and 
surrounding country can be obtained. In the Capitol 
grounds is the Washington Monument, the finest monu- 
mental pile and grandest group of statuary in America. 
It was designed by Crawford. The work left undone at 
his death was completed by Rogers. The figure of Wash- 
ington on horseback is surrounded by statues of Jefferson, 
Henry, Marshall, Nelson, Mason and Lewis. Allegorical 
bronzes occupy the lower pediments. In this square are 
also the statues of Henry Clay, by Hart, and Stonewall 
Jackson, by the great English sculptor, Foley, now 

*Col. Sherwin McRae has written, and the State has published, a valu- 
able history of this statue, demonstrating that it is the most perfect like- 
ness of Washingfton in existence. 



@Bay Line Steamers.^ 

THE POPULAR, DIRECT AND MOST DELIGHTFUL 



TOURIST'S . BdIDE 



BETWEEN 

New York, Philadelphia and Baltimore, and Old 
Point Comfort and Norfolk, and Princi- 
pal Southern and South- 
western Cities. 

X 



Direct connection made at Old Point Comfort With Chesapeake and Ohio 

Railway, and at Norfolk and Portsmouth with Seaboard and 

Roanoke R. R., Norfolk and Western R. R , Norfolk 

Southern R. R., and Virginia Steamboat 

Company, for all points in 

Atlantic Coast 

States. 



•X 



PALACE STEAMERS. UNSURPASSED CUISINE 

UNDISTURBED NIGHT'S REST. 

SURE CONNECTIONS. 



•X 



D J. HILL, Superintendent, E. BROWN, G. T. A., 

Baltimore. Baltimore. 

H V. TOMPKINS, 
G. P. A., 287 Broadway. New York. 

(14) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 16 

deceased, both presented to Virginia— the first by his 
countrywomen, the other by English admirers of the 
famous Confederate soldier. The Gubernatorial Mansion 
is within the enclosure of the square. 

The other buildings in the city most interesting to 
visitors are : St. John's Church,* built about 1745, where 
Patrick Henry in 1775 made his speech, using the memo- 
rable words : *' Owe me liberty or give rae death ; " the 
Monumental Church, marking the site of the old Rich- 
mond Theatre, destroyed by fire December 26th, 1811, 
(in which perished one hundred and twenty persons, 
including the Governor of the State, George W. Smith, 
and others of distinction ;) St. Paul's Episcopal church, 
where President Jefferson Davis was worshiping Sun- 
day, April 2nd, 1865, when notified by General R. E. Lee 
of the breaking of the lines near Petersburg ; the Custom 
House, used by the Confederates as Treasury Depart- 
ment, and for offices of the President ; the Central 
School Building, formerly the residence of Hon. Jefferson 
Davis, and as such, ''The White House" of the Con- 
federacy ; the Old Stone House, on Main street, near 
Twentieth, which has some Revolutionary history ; the 
residence of General R. E. Lee, and the house of Chief- 
Justice Marshall, northwest corner of Ninth and Mar- 
shall streets. 

Other places worth visiting are : the Tredegar Iron 
Works, which was the great cannon manufactory of the 



*Its first pastor, and the first Episcopal minister in Richmond, was Rev 
Miles Selden, familiarly called " Parson Selden." 



CLAREMONT, VA. 



W 



J. FRANK 










HA'S 





^f 



y V7 J_^ 




ZING 



. AGENCY. 



• >' ? '< * 



CLAREMONT, VA. 

(16) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 17 

Confederacy ; the Gallego and Haxall Flouring Mills, 
among the largest in the world ; the tobacco factories, 
where the singing of the negro hands while manipu- 
lating the leaf is very entertaining ; the Tobacco and 
Corn Exchanges, where samples of those staples are 
daily exposed for sale ; and the studio of the sculptor, 
E. V. Valentine, 809 east Leigh street. The Libby and 
Belle Isle are of interest as former military prisons. 
Castle Thunder having been recently destroyed by fire. 

The finest public buildings are the Custom House and 
Post-Office, the Almshouse, the Medical College and 
Y. M. C. A. The City Hall was pulled down several 
years ago to make room for a handsome new granite 
building which is now under construction. The hand- 
some new Academy of Music has just been erected, and 
new Masonic Temple commenced. 

At Oakwood Cemetery 17,000 Confederates are buried. 
A handsome monument has been raised over them. At 
Hollywood are the graves of 12,000 more. A granite 
pyramid ninety feet high has been erected in their 
memory by the ladies of Virginia. The graves of Presi- 
dents Monroe and Tyler, and Generals A. P. Hill, 
George E. Pickett, J. E. B. Stuart, and H. A. Wise, 
Commodore Matthew F. Maury, the journalist, Thomas 
Ritchie, (known as the " father of the Democratic party,") 
John M. Daniel, war editor of the ^^ Examiner ^^^ the 
poet, John R. Thompson, and many other celebrities, are 
also there. Upon the northern limits of the city, at the 
terminus of Third street, are the Shockoe Hill and 



STOVES, TINWARE 

AND HOUSE-FURNISHING GOODS. 

Hot Sir Fornaces and pire-place Heaters. 

L. W. SLAZEBROOf 

fLij^^Bi^G TINNING, 



-AND- 



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GAS FIXTURES 

AND 

SliATE IVTAflTEIiS 



X 



' Orders Promptlf attended to aod [stimates Furoistied upon Application. 

— X — 

No. 726 E. MAIN STREET, 

RICHMOND, VA. 

(18) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 19 

Jewish Cemeteries. In the former are buried Chief- 
Justice Marshall, John Hampden Pleasants, and many 
others of distinction. 

A line view of Belle Isle, Manchester and Richmond 
may be had from Hollywood. Just across the canal from 
that Cemetery is the Pump-House. The fashionable 
drive is to the New Reservoir Park and Soldiers' Home 
on the west of the city. The city's water is pumped 
from the river into two reservoirs northwest of Holly- 
wood. 

Monroe Park is near the western, and Marshall Park, 
(Libby Hill,) and Chimborazo Park, near the eastern 
end of the city. From both of the latter a fine river view 
may be had. A carriage may be taken and within a few 
hours' ride from the city several battle-fields and Na 
tional cemeteries visited. In and about the city some 
60,000 or 70,000 soldiers of the contending armies are 
buried. The Electric City Railway of Richmond is the 
longest in the world. 

Man Chester .—Opposite to Richmond, on the south 
bank of the James, is Manchester, (also a very old settle- 
ment,) a fiourishing manufacturing citj^ containing 
about 10,000 inhabitants. 

Two bridges for vehicles and foot passengers, and three 
for railroad cars, connect it with Richmond. A Street 
Car Railway connects Manchester and Richmond by the 
Free Bridge. A large number of the citizens are em- 
ployed in cotton and flouring mills, granite works, and 
brick manufactories. 



JNO. 8. HARWOOD, WM. F. HARWOOD, R. H. HARWOOD, 

HAllWOOI) BROS. & CO. 



WHOLESALE DEALERS IN 



ILS. GREASE^^ 



* GASOLINES, 



ilth and Car? Streets, 



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Eureka Bright Machine and Spindle Oils. Mecca 

Engine and Excelsior Car Oils. Cylinder Oils 

OFFICE, 1 iOI, 2, 3, & 5, GARY ST. 

Warehouse and Grease Works, 9th and Arch Sts. 

(20) 






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patent Family piour. 



FIRST PREMIUM AT VA. EXPOSITION. 

JUMES miim fumili 

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(22) 



r 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 23 

The people are industrious and thrifty, and the city, 
like Richmond, is steadily growing in wealth and 
importance. Especially those interested in industrial 
enterprises will find a visit to Manchester profitable. 

Xlie Tourist. — The visitor leaving Richmond by 
the V^irginia Steamboat Company's elegantly furnished 
aad commodious steamer "Ariel," Captain Deyo, for any 
. I the River landings, or for Old Point and Norfolk 
direct, and for all northern cities by its connections, at 
once enters into a country rich with historical associa- 
tions. 

It is the object of this work to point out to the traveler 
some of the famed localities and to refresh his memory 
with a few incidents of their history. The colonial records 
are crowded with details of the early settlements on the 
James. Revolutionary history abounds in facts relating 
to the river country. The literature of the last war is 
largely devoted to a recital of the operations of the armies 
upon these banks. From these and many other sources 
we gather these fragments, leaving untouched material 
sufficient for many volumes of history and romance. 

Xlie James River.— The Indians called the river 
Powhatan or King's river. The English under Newport 
and Smith, who entered it in 1607, gave it the name of 
James, in honor of their sovereign. King James I. New- 
port and Smith explored the river to the falls at Rich- 
mond in 1607, Smith describes it as follows : 

"The mouth of this river is neare three myles in 
breadth, yet doe the shoules force the Channel so neare 



YORK RIVER LINE. 



(SUNDAYS EXCEPTED.) 

WM mnEwwpmmE mmc 

X 

ONLY $2.00 BETWEEN 

I^IGHMOND $ BALIPIMOI^B. 



X 



INVIGORATING SEA BREEZES, 



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INVITING MEALS, k^- 



COMMODIOUS STATE ROOMS. 



X- 



For General Information apply to 

G. F. NEEDHAM, C. W. CHEARS, 

G. P. A., York River Line, Ass't G. P. A , R, & D. R. R., 

Light St., Baltimore, Md. Richmond, Va. 

(24) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 25 

the land that a ^Sarce will overshoot it at point Blanche. 
It is navigable 150 myles. It falleth froni Rockes farre 
west, in a country inhabited by a nation they call Mona- 
cans. But where it cometh into our discovery it is Pow- 
hatan. In the farthest place, [now Richmond,] that 
was diligently observed, are falles, rockes, shoules, &c., 
which make it past navigation any higher. Thence in 
the running downward the river is enriched with many 
goodly brookes, which are maintained by an infinite 
number of small rundles and pleasant springs, that dis- 
perse themselves for the best service, as do the veins of a 
man's body " 

The entire length of James river from its source in 
Pendleton, W. Va., to its efflux in Chesapeake Bay, "is 
about 360 miles, but following its meanders, it is probable 
that the stream flows not much, if any less, than 500 
miles." At several points, such as Dutch Gap, Curl's 
Neck and Jones' Neck, the river winds so much that its 
course is horse-shoe shaped, and vessels separated by 
several miles of river travel are only a short distance 
from each other by air line. 

It is navigable from Richmond to the sea for vessels 
"drawing sixteen feet. 

Po'wiiatan. — The brick building with trees about it, 
standing on the elevated ground on the left shore, and 
seen just after leaving this Company's wharf, was 
unquestionably the site of one of the residences of Pow- 
hatan, the great Indian potentate, who ruled over 

(2) *Species of falcon. 



HOTEL 

Twelfth Street Opposite Capitol Park, 





RICHMOND, VA. 

X 



APPOINTMENTS FIRST CLASS, 



X 



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X 

Kirst^Class Coachies meet all Trains 
and Steannboats. 



X 



CH^^lJ^ES iB.'DOlDSOfi, PPOpPietoP, 

Connected with American Hotel for 12 years. 

(26; 



THE .JAMES KIVEK TOUKJST. 27 

several tribes of Eastern Virginia in the early days of 
English settlement. Captain John Smith, condemned 
to death by this Powhatan, was saved by the entreaties 
of Pocahontas, the chieftain's daughter. This occurrence 
was at Wero Wicomico, on York river, near Shirley, in 
Gloucester county, Powhatan's chief place of residence. 

A boulder of about a ton in weight, bearing the traces 
of rude carvings, is pointed out at Powhatan as the 
tomb of King Powhatan, though it is now contended 
that he was not buried there. 

Powhatan was seated by Joseph Mayo in 1725. His 
brother. Major William Mayo, surveyor,. &c., laid off the 
cities of Richmond and Petersburg. 

'Wliittjyo — On the right bank of the James, where 
the new framed building is seen — was settled as early as 
1620, thirteen years after Jamestow^n. An ancient record 
refers to it in a boundary line "Asa place called Whitby, 
owned by Goode." Goode was an Englishman from 
Whitby, on the northeast coast of England. 

James River Jetties.— The dykes and wing dams 
in the river, seen at and below Powhatan, are somewhat 
after the order of Ead's Mississippi River Jetties, and 
are intended to contract and deepen the stream. In this 
vicinity the United States Monitor Fleet is anchored. 

"Warwick. — A little over four miles from Richmond, 
on the high ground on the right (Chesterfield) bank, 
about where the old chimney stands, is the site of the 
former town of Warwick. Previous to the Revolution, 
and when the bars and rocks had not been removed to 



(ESTABLISHED 1829.) 

JULIEN BINFORD, 

Successor to W. D, BLAIR & CO. 



DEALER IN 



FANSY SR06ER1ES, 

Jeas, U/ipes, apd Ijqubrs, 

AND MANUFACTURERS' AGENT FOR 

KEY WEST AND OTHER FINE mm, 

1202. E. MAIN STREET, 

RICHMOND, VA. 

X 

Proprietor of the Celebrated " B-Select," "Glenwood," "Montrose" 
and "Alpha"' Whiskeys; also Harvest Whiskey in Great Variety. 

X 

I have made a chemical examination of the "Montrose" Whiskey, the 
sample having been collected by me from many barrels, and find that it contains 
no impurities or adulterations. As a bevarage or medicinal agent it is entitled 
to full confidence. 

WM. H. TAYLOR, M. D., 
Richmond, Va., February 26, 1885. State Chemist. 



X 



I have analyzed the Whiskey known under the head of " B-Se!ect," con- 
trolled by MeSSrS. WALTER D. BLAIR & CO., Richmond, Va., and find it free 
from Fusil Oil and other impurities, and recommend its use for medicinal and 
family purposes. 

J. 8. McCAW, M. D., 

Late Professor of Chemistry, Medical College of Virginia. 

(28) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 29 

admit of navigation to Richmond, this was a shipping 
point, and was a place of more importance than Rich- 
mond. Traces of the old wharves are yet to be seen at 
low tide. The town was burnt by Benedict Arnold's 
command of British troops in the Revolutionary war. 

The poet, Edgar A. Poe, when quite a young man, for 
a wager, swam against a rising tide from a point near 
where the Ariel's wharf now is, to Warwick, and walked 
back to Richmond. The fact was attested by witnesses 
of it. 

Confederate Pontoon Bridg^e. — Near the 
water-guage on the Warwiclv side, and at an opposite 
point on the other bank, are to be seen abutments of the 
old Confederate Pontoon Bridge, built of canal boats 
and schooners during the Seven Day's Battles in 1862. 

Half a mile below the bridge was the first line of 
obstructions in the river, intended to stop Federal vessels 
should they pass Drewry's Bluff. There was a narrow 
and circuitous passage-way left open, through which 
vessels going to and from Drewry's Bluff* could with 
proper caution pass. 

Anipttiill. — The dark brick house on the right, 
nearly surrounded by trees, and at considerable distance 
from the river, was the residence of Col. Archibald Gary, 
a prominent Revolutionary patriot. The bricks were 
brought from Europe, it is claimed. Wilton, across the 
river from Falling Creek, is another relic of antiquity. 

Falling^ Creek. — This stream enters the James 
between Ampthill and Drewry's Bluff". On the banks 



MgADAMS & BERRY, 

EADiNG CLOTHIERS ■<>- 



^■^ AND HATTERS. 



looi Main Street, corner Tenth, 

RICHMOND, VA. 

W.. H. BRAUER, 

BUTCHER 

STALL No. 26 FIRST MARKET, 

RICHMOND, VA. 

X 

DEALER IN PRIME FRESH MEATS. 



X 



MARKETING DELIVERED FREE. 

(30) . 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 31 

of it, and about half a mile from the river shore, was 
erected the flrsl iron furnace in the colony. In 1G22, the 
date of the general massacre of colonists. Col. Berkeley 
and twenty of the operatives w ere killed by the Indians. 
Mr. R. A. J^rock, Secretary Virginia Historical Society, 
wh< se historical reseaiches and writings have been of 
great value, thinks that a furnace was again worked here 
by Col. Wm. Byrd, the fir^f of the name, in 1.690. It is 
believed that the first furnaces were operated with bog 
or surface ore, which abounds in the locality. Col. Ar- 
chibald Cary, who conducted the furnace in 1760, and 
some time afterwards, obtained his ore from the Potomac. 
Col. Cary's works were burnt by TarLton during the 
Revolution. 

The abutment piles of a Confederate military bridge 
can be seen near the mouth of Falling Creek. At the 
time of the evacuation of Richmond a considerable por- 
tion of Gen. Lee's army from the north of the James 
crossed this bridge on tlieii way to Petersburg and Appo 
mattox C. H. 

^Dre\%'ry's Bluff, or Fort Darling:.— On the 
right siije of the river, where the bank rises high, is 
Drewry's Bluff. The steamer reaches it half an hour 
after leaving Richmond. When the fortifications were 
incomplete here, in May, 1862, the Federal fleet (Monitor, 
Galena, Aroostook, Naugutuck, Port Royal and others), 
were ordered to proceed to Richmond and "shell the city 

* It was called Fort Darling by the Federals and Drewry's Bluff by the 
Confederates. 



C. E. JONES. THOMAS POINDEXTER. THOS. N. JONES. 

JONES, POINDEXTER & CO. 

W HOLESALE P ROGERS, 



AND DEALERS IN 



TOBACCO AND CIGARS, 

No. III2 E. GARY STREET, 

RICHMOND, VIRGINIA. 

PURCELL, LADD & C0."~ 

-WHOLESALE- 

DRUGGISTS 

RICHMOND, UA. 



X 



Agents for the following Waters of the Virginia Springs, 

and other Celebrated Mineral Waters of this 

Country and Europe : 

Wolf Trap Lithia, White Sulphur, 

Rockbridge Alum, Alleghany, Healing, Buffalo 

Lithia, Blue Ridge, Wajla- 

whatoola Alum. 

(32) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. * 33 

into a surrender." They were not aware that the river 
had been obstructed at the Bkiff by the Confederates 
sinking steamers and canal boats loaded with stone. The 
Federal fleet, however, never reached the obstructions. 
After a hot fight and«considerable. P^'ederal loss the fleet 
retired. Thirteen shots were put through the Galena. 
Subsequently the Bluff" was made a very Gibraltar for 
strength. 

General B. F. Butler made an attack on the line to the 
right of Drewry's Bluff in May, 1864, and succeeded in 
forcing his way to the Richmond and Petersburg railroad, 
but was soon compelled to retire before the Confederates 
to Bermuda Hundred.* Several of the buildings used 
for officers' quarters and many of the earthworks are 
still standing. 

ViTiltoii Creek, enters the river from the left bank 
(north side) after Drewry 's Bluff'is passed. Off the mouth 
of this creek the Federal gun-boats anchored to attack 
Drewry's Bluff. 

Ctiaffiti^S Bluff.— The bluff' below Wilton Creek 
is Chaffin's. It was very strongly fortified by the Con- 
federates after the battle with gun-boats at Drewry's 
Bluff*. Earthworks .-till visible. 

Xlie Grave-Yard branding; — Fort Harri- 
son. — In the grave-yard near this wharf, lon the left 
bank), there was a Confederate signal station for some 

* In conformity with the Code of Martial Law each hundred (colonists) 
were subjected to the control of the Captain.— Ca//tpbe/^ Hence Bermuda 
Hundred, Flowery Hundred, &c. The first name of the plantation was 
Bermudas ; afterward called Bermuda Hundred. 



p. J, CREW & CO, 




WORKS 



1 13, 1 15 AND 117 Seventeenth St.; 

RICHMOND, VA. 



■X- 



Manufacture the Standard Grades of Laundry Soaps, 

which we offer to the trade at lowest 

Market Price. 



HABLISTON & BRO. 

NEW AND ARTISTIC 

FURNITURE 

PARIvOR SUIXS. 

Hall, Library, and Sitting Room Pieces 

OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, 

Bed-Room Furniture in Suits or Single Pieces, 

SPRING BEDS, MATTRESSES, ETC. 

Our Assortment will please fou io Oualitf, Ouaotitf and Price, 

905 MAIN ST., RICHMOND. VA. 



Old Dominion Steamers 



-FOR- 







<sp> 

LEAVE 

RICHMOND via James River every 

TUESDAY and FRIDAY 

at 5 P. M. 

FARE— CABIX, 

Including Meals and Stateroom Berth. 

To New York, $ 9 00 

To New York and return, good for 30 days, - 14 00 

SXHHRAGH. 

With Subsistence, - - - - $6 00 

Without Subsistence, - - - - 5 00 

Passengers can leave Richmond via Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, and 
via Petersburg and the Norfolk and Western Railway every Monday. 
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, connecting at Norfolk 
with Ship for New York the sarne evening. Fare, straight, $10; Excur- 
rsion, $14, good for 15 days. 

The Steamer "ARIEL " from Richmond Wednesday mornings will con- 
nect at Norfolk with Ships leaving same evening. 

Steamers leave New York for Richmond, via James River, every 
Wednesday and Saturday at 3 P. M. from Pier 26 North River. 

Tickets for sale at Chesapeake and Ohio and Richmond and Petersburg 
Depots, A. W. Garber's, 1000 Main Street, Company's Office. 1301 Main 
Street, and aboard Ships. 

GEO. W. ALLEN & CO., 

Agents. 
(36) 



The JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 3? 

jnonths. Looking back up the river and to the right of 
ChatHn's you have a fine view of Fort Harrison. 

On the 29th of September, 1864, two corps of Butler's 
army surprised and wrested Fort Harrison from the small 
Confederate garrison. They then attempted to carry 
Fort Gilmer, adjacent to Fort Harrison, but were repulsed 
with great slaughter. The attacking party was mostly 
composed of negroes. On 30th September General Lee, 
with two Confederate divisions, endeavored to retake 
Fort Harrison, but in vain. 

Devil's Reach.— The stretch of water in front of 
the settlement on the right bank is known as Devil's 
Reach. The Confederate flag-of-truce steamer Shultz, 
having been down the river and delivered a number of 
Federal prisoners for exchange, near here ran upon a 
Confederate torpedo and was destroyed. 

Three or four men were killed. Her commander, Cap- 
tain D. J. Hill, was thrown overboard, but was happily 
saved to grace his present jDosition as Superintendent of 
the Bay Line steamers between Baltimore and Norfolk. 

Where the shores approach each other closest the river 
is 450 feet wide, and in the channel sixty-five feet deep. 

Sig'nal Hill. — The high ground seen from Cox's 
wharf, looking back up the river, is Signal Hill. It was 
at first a Confederate signal station, and later a Federal 
fort. A path leads up the hill from the river's edge. 

Confederate Batteries.— The redoubts on the 
right side of the river were a portion of the Confederate 



G. W. WARREN, W. R. QUARLES, 

Late Real Estate Broker. Late Cashier Planters National Bank. 



BANKERS AND BROKERS, 

1117 MAIN ST., RICHMOND, VA. 

STOCKS, BONOS, GOVEeiiMENl, STATE, W AND OTHEO SECURITIES ' 

Bought and Sold on Commission. 

X 

Loans Negotiated. Correspondence Solicited. 



RICHMOND TRANSFER COMPANY, 

AND 

Genefal Railroad and Steamship Ticket Office, 

rooo EASX MAIX SXREEX. 

THROUGH TICKETS TO ALL POINTS 

NORTH, SOUTH, EAST, AND WEST, 

AND EUROPE. 

Sleeping and Parlor Car Accommodations secured. 

Passengers and Baggage called for at Hotels and Private Residences for 
all trains and steamers leaving the city. 

Baggage checked to destination. 

Pleasure carriages with intelligent drivers for hire at reasonable rates. 

Information cheerfully given by addressing 

A, W. GARBER, 1000 East Main Street. 

(38) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 39 

line, which extended from below Drewry's Bluff to 
Howlett's farm and thence to Petersburg. 

Around Farrar»s Island.— Steamers now go 
through Dutch Gap instead of rounding Farrar's Island, 
or "the cut off." Travelers thus save almost half hour, 
but miss sight of the Howlett House Batteries— a strong 
. Confederate position— and Osbornes', the latter a ship- 
ping point for coal brought down by rail from the Ches- 
terfield Pits. 

Dutcli Gap Canal.— This interesting point is an 
hour's ride by steamer from Richmond. The river here 
makes a long sweep around the narrow neck of land 
known as Farrar's Island. 

Ralphe Hamor, sometime Secretary of the Colony, in 
his notes printed in 1615, says of this place : 

"Sir Thomas Gates and party left Jamestown in the 
year 1611, with 350 men, such as he himself made 
choice of, and in a day and a half landed at a place 
where he purposed to seate and builde, where he had not 
bin ten dales before he had very strongly impaled seven 
English acres of ground for a towne, which, in honor of 
the noble Prince Henrie," - - "he called by the 
name of Henrico." ^ * 

"There is in this towne three streets of well framed 
houses, a hansom church, and a foundation of a more 
stately one laid of brick, in length a hundred foote, and 
fifty foote wide, besides store-houses, watch-houses, and 
such like ; there are also on the verge of the river five 
block houses, with centinelles for the town's security." 



Locomotives for every variety of service. 




Catalogues, Estimates, and Specifications on application. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 41 

The town was abandoned after a few years. 

Bishop Meade, in his "Old Churches and Families of 
Virginia," says: 

" It has also been called Dutch Gap, because there are 
indubitable marks of the commencement of a channel 
by the first Dutch settlers across its narrow neck, by 
which the water might be let through and seven miles 
of travel thus saved. The channel was opened about 
half way across — that is, about sixty yards and then 
abandoned. The city laid off here was called Henri- 
copolis, or the City of Henry. It was afterward, in com- 
mon use, contracted to Henrico." 

Standing on an elevation on the island, one may here 
see what appears to be four rivers, such are the meanders 
of the James. 

General B. F. Butler, in 1864, undertook to cut the 
canal through the narrow neck, with the object of allow- 
ing the Federal gun-boats to evade the heavy Confed- 
erate batteries on Hewlett's Bluff, opposite. the other end 
of the island. The Confederates daily shelled the work- 
ing parties, and many men were killed in the ditch. 
Butler had, however, nearly completed the canal to a 
depth of five or six feet when, he says, he received an 
intimation from the naval authorities to cease work, as 
they feared, from a formidable demonstration the Con- 
fedenite gunboats had then but recently made, that the 
latter would come through the canal and interfere with 
the Federal operations. 




Hunting Outfits. 

A, SAKS & CO 

1003 Main St., 



OPPOSITE P. 0. 



RICHMOND, VA. 



HENRY BUCKER S 



STEAM BOTTLING 



WORKS. 



il 



Agent for GEO. EHRET'S New York Lager Beer. GEO. EHRET'S New 
York andSCHLITZ Milwaukee Export Beers a Specialty. 

2120 AND 2122 EAST MAIN STREET, 

RICHMOND, VA. 

(42) 



THE .7AMES RIVER TOURIST. 48 

111 1871 and 1879, by expenditures of' considerable 
money by the United States Government and city of 
Richmond, the canal was deepened und widened and 
made navigable. Its length is four hundred and eighty- 
one feet, width about two hundred and fifty, depth of 
channel-way sixteen feet at low tide. In March, 1879, 
while a party of men were engaged on the north bank in 
the work of widening the canal, the premature explosion 
of a can of nitro-glycerine killed M. C. Heggarty, Elias 
G. Hall, and Alexander Brown, and wounded others. 

\arlna, or Ailteii's Lraiidiiig^.— In the first set- 
tlement here "Master Rolfe, sometime Secretary of the 
Colony," resided after he had married Pocahontas, 
daughter of Powhatan, and celebrated as the saver of 
Captain John Smith's life. The name Varina was given 
because the tobacco produced here was similar to that 
produced at Varina, in Spain. The county seat of Hen- 
rico was for a long time here. It was removed from 
here to Richmond The British under Benedict Arnold 
burnt the settlement during the revolution. 

For a considerable period of the late war Varina was 
neutral ground, and here many thousand prisoners were 
exchanged. On this account the place is best known. 
In .the large red-brick house, near the wharf, (on the left 
shore,) the commissioners of exchange of the two armies 
often held their mi etings. 

Deep Bottom. — Collection of fishermen's huts on 
the left. There were several severe engagements in this 
vicinity during the war. In 1864 one of Butler's gun- 



E. J. BOSHEK. 



C. G. BOSHER. 



R. H. BOSHER'S SONS. 



MANUFACTURERS OF FIRST CLASS 



C ARRIAGES, R UGGIES, 
yy AGONS, ^C. 

A large stock of vehicles of every description kept always on hand. 

Repairing done in the best manner and at reasonable rates. 

Doctors' Buggies a Specialty, 

No. 15 SOUXH XIXXH SXREEX, 

RICHMOND, VA. 



■'« 



>m 



HOUSEHOLD GOODS, 



glassuiare, 



Tinware, 




Clocks and 



[amps. 



PKNCV GOODS, 

WHOLESALE and RETAIL. 
lOII MAIN STREET, Opposite Post-OfRce, 

RICHMOND, VA. 

(44) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 45 

boats, while attempting to pass this point, was destroyed 
by a Confederate torpedo, and forty-five men killed. An 
unusual ripple in the stream marks the place where she 
went down and her wreck yet lies. 

Curl's Neck;. — From Deep Bottom to City Point 
the course of the river is something like the letter S, 
with Curl's Neck on the left, and Bermuda on the right. 

Xurltey Bend.— Here McClellan took refuge under 
cover of his gun-boats after the Seveu Day's Battle 
around Richmond. Turkey Island Plantation (on the 
left) was the home of General Pickett, who led the Vir- 
ginia Division in their celebrated charge at Gettysburg. 
The residence was destroyed b^- fire from the gun-boats. 
There was formerly an island in the river here much 
frequented by wild turkeys, and from it the place took 
its name. The island long since disappeared. A buoy 
marks the place where it is believed to have been. 

Malvern Hill. — This place — the high ground on 
the left bank — is best seen as the steamer approaches 
Turkey Island wharf. Here McClellan, in July, 1862, 
after the bloody battles around Richmond, made his last 
stand and repulsed the attack of a portion of the Con- 
federate arm}' under General McGruder. He held his 
ground at Malvern Hill for several days, and then re- 
treated to Harrison's Landing. 

Presque Isle. — The large new framed barn to the 
right, is on the Presque Isle Plantation. From this 
vicinity the chimaeys of the Shirley house, distant eight 
or nine miles by the windings of the river, but not a 



JOHN BOWERS, 

No. 7. (Iron Block) Governor St., 

RICHMOND, VA. 

3RKSS F=IRE SETS. 



_o 

o 

O 

o 

c 
m 



c 

<: 

C 
«3 



0} ~o 
-o c 

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a> 






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Cl. 



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tD 



REFRIGERATORS AND OIL STOVES A SPECIALTY. 

SEND FOR CIRCULAR. 

THE POPULAR 




Goods aod Carpet House 

LEVY & DAVIS, 



1017 & 1019 MAIN STREET. 



ONE PRICE ONLY. 



Ajenls for ttie Wtiitoef Babf Carriages. 



A full Stock of Toys. at all times. 



(■16) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 47 

fourth of the distance b^^ direct line, may be plainly seen. 
In Colonial days Presqiie Isle was known as Bermuda 
Nether Hundred. 

Sliirley. — This fine old homestead occupies an eli- 
gible site on the hi-h ground on the left bank. A glimpse 
of it, through the trees, may be caught after the wharf 
is passed The house of brick was built in 1642, it is 
said, but certainly prior to 1700, and is yet in an excel- 
lent state of preservation. 

Annie Carter, wife of Light Horse Harry Lee of Revo- 
lutionary fame, and mother of General R. E. Lee, was 
born here. 

Bermuda Hundred.— The settlement on the 
right (between the James and Appomattox), is known 
as Bermuda Hundred. It is in Chesterfield county, and 
is the eastern terminus of the Bnghthope Railroad. 
The Indian massacre here in 1622, "was great." 

General B. F. Butler having, in 1864, advanced to 
Chester Station, on the Richmond and Petersburg Rail- 
road, and being compelled to retire, found a place of 
refuge on this neck of land. General Grant said that 
Butler's condition (t'hough he had 25,000 or 30,000 men) 
was as helpless as though he were corked up in a bottle. 
Hence " Butler bottled up. '^ 

City Point.— This place, in Prince George county, 
is two and one-half hours run from Richmond by 
steamer. The Appomattox here joins the James, round- 
ing the point of land upon which the village is built. 



RICHMOND STRAIGHT CUT 

No.1 






4^Cigarette Smokers who are willing to pay a little more for Cigarettes 
than the price charged for the ordinary trade Cigarettes will nnd the 

RICHMOND STRAIGHT CUT No. 1 Superior to all others, 

They are made from the brightest, most delicately flavored, and highest 
cost gold leaf grown in Virginia, and are absolutely without adulteration 
or drugs. We use the Genuine French Rice Paper, of our own direct 
importation, which is made especially for us, water marked with the name 
of the brand— 

RICHMOND STRAIGHT CUT No. I, 

on each Cigarette, without which none are genuine. Base imitations of 
this brand have been put on sale, and Cigarette smokers are cautioned 
that this is the Old and Original brand, and to observe that each package 
or box of Richmond Straight Cut Cigarettes bears the signature of ALLEN & 
GINTER, Manufacturers, Richmond, Va. 

(48) 




^ o 






SAVAGE AND ffOLMS, 



FACTORY 324 SOUTH SIXTH STREET, 



MANUFACTURERS OF FINE 



H^ARD-WOOD 



_.^ 



WORK. 



X 



|\/|antles, Bar Pixtures, 

O"^*^'^^' S^^"^^ ^^^ L'^^'^'^^ Fittings, 

Etc 



X- 



RICHMOND, VA, 

(50) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 51 

The Appomattox is navigable to the historic city of 
Petersburg, and a railroad of nine miles length connects 
that city with the Point. Much of the shipping of 
Petersburg is done here. 

General Grant had his headquarters at City Point 
during the siege of Petersburg. 

President Lincoln was here on a visit when Richmond 
was evacuated, and went hence to Richmond, and upon 
his return to Washington was assassinated. 

Scenery, Crops, &c, — As the boat leaves City 
Point a fine view of river scenery may be had. The 
James river lands, both above and below this point, yield 
richly of corn, oats, wheat, peanuts, truck, &c. 

In the early days of Virginia history, the great crop 
on James river was tobacco. Little of it is now produced 
in this section; other crops which pay better and require 
less care, being preferred. The great tobacco producing 
region of Virginia now is on both sides of the James 
above the falls, in the Piedmont country, and in the 
counties of Southside Virginia 

The waters of the James yield liberal supplies of fish. 
In the marshes, in the early weeks of autum, thousands 
of sora are killed and sent to the cities for sale. There 
are fine marshes at Aiken's, Curl's Neck, Turkey Island, 
Brandon, and Westover. 

In season, partridges may be killed in the fields, and 
wild ducks and other water fowl on the banks of the 
stream. Many sportsmen come here, some in their fine 
steam yachts from the North, as guests of the planters, 
to exercise their skill. 



J3 « o o 

'^ 0) !5^ ii 

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i> l* C J, ^ 



P 5) C OJ 0) 



THE JAMES RTVER TOURIST* 53 

On the right, three miles below City Point, is Jordan's 
Point Light-honse. 

Berkeley.— A few miles below City Point, on the 
left shore, is Berkeley or Harrison's Lindiiig. Berkeley 
is an old (Colonial residence. President (Tippecanoe) 
Harrison was born here in 1773. Tlie house is of English 
brick, in good repaii-. After tlie battle of Malvern Hill, 
McCIellan retreated to this point and fortified himself. 
From Coggin's Point, on the opposite shore, the Con- 
federates, on one occasion, shelled McClellan's shipping 
in the river, doing it great damage. 

From "Camp near Harrison's Lauding," on July 4th, 
1862, General McCIellan issued his " congratulory order" 
to his troops, saying, "We have succeeded in alianging 
our bane of operations by a flank movement," &e., and 
his armj^ was soon afcetwards embarked for Acquia 
Creek. 

In 1864 General Wade Hampton, with a command of 
Confederate cavalry, starting fi-om Petersburg, made a 
cirruit around the Union lines and swept down to Syca- 
more church, near Coggin's Point, where he seized, and 
then drove back to the Confederate lines, 2,500 beef 
cattle, 200 mules, and 300 prisoners. 

•John Tyler, the tenth President of the United States, 
and the sixth from Virginia, was born in Charles City 
county, in 1790, about five miles below Berkele3\ Four 
miles lower down on the river was his residence. His 
grave is in Hollywood Cemetery, Richmond. 



JOHN L. WILLIAMS. JNO. SKELTON WILLIAMS. 

X 

John L. Williams & Son, 

BankerFand 



No. 1014 MAIN STREET, 

RICHMOND, VA. 

— -X — 

P. O. BOX 225. 

X — 

Transact a general Banking and Brokerage Business. Deal in Southern 
Investment Securities. Negotiate Railroad 

and Municipal Loans. 

(54) 



« 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 55 

The Massacre of 1622. — The ColoDial Records 
contain a list of tliose massacred by the Indians on this 
river in 1622. The places (many of which may be readily 
identified) and numbers are as follows: " At Berkeley's 
Plantation, seated at Falling Creeke, some 66 miles from 
James Cittie, 27; At Master Thomas Sheffield's Plan- 
tation, some three miles from Falling Creeke, 15; At 
Henrico Hand, about two miles from Henrico Cittie, 17; 
At Apomattucke River, at Master Abram Pierce, his 
Plantation, some five miles oflf'theCoUedge people,* 4 ; At 
Charles Cittie, and about the precincts of Capt. Smith's 
Company, 5; At other Plantations next adjoining, 8; At 
Mr. Wm. Farrar's House, 10; At Berkeley Hundred, 
some five miles from Charles Cittie, 17; At Westover, 
about a mile from Berkeley Hundred, 33; At Flowerdieu 
Hundred, Sir George Yeardley's Plantation, 6; At the 
other side of the River, opposite Flowerdieu Hundred, 7 
At Mr. Swinehowe's, 7; At Mr. Wm. Bikar's House, 5 
At Weyanoack, of Sir George Yeardley, his people, 21 
At Powle Brooke, 12; At Southampton Hundred, 5; At 
Martin Brandon's, 7; At Capt. Spilman's House, 2; At 
Ensigne Spence, his House, 5; Persons slaine at Martin's 



*The College Land.— "In 1619 Sir Edwin Sandys moved and obtained 
that ten thousand acres of land should be laid off for the University at 
Henrico, a place formerly resolved on for that purpose. This was intended 
as well for the college for the education of the Indians as to lay the 
foundation of a Seminary of learning for the English."— Stith. " On the 
northerly side of James River, from the falls down to Henrico, containing 
ten miles in length, are the public lands reserved and laid out, whereof 
are ten thousand for the University lands, 3000 are for the Company's 
lands, with other lands belonging to the College."— ^/cJ>o?zaZd Papers. 



E VERETT W ADDEY . 



^^mmmm'^^''^' 




OO KBINDER 

No. I i 12 MAIN ST., 

RICHMOND, VIRGINIA 



X 



AGENT FOR THE 



SCHLICHT & FIELD 

abor-Savini Office Devic«$, 

METIIL BOLLEB SHELl/ING, DOCUMEIT FILES, M, 



The only house m the State carrying in Stock a complete line of Legal 

Blanks for the use of Attorneys, Clerk of Courts 

Commissioners, Magistrates, &c. 
(56) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 57 

Hundred, some seavan miles from James Cittie, 79; At 
Mr. Thomas Pierce, his House, over against Mulberry 
Island, 6; At Mr. Edward Bennet's Plantation, 53; At 
Master Walter's House, 5. Total, 347." 

Westover.— This fine residence of English l)rick 
(on the left) has long been celebrated in Virginia History. 
The name of Westover ajipears as far back as 1623. Here 
was for many years the county seat of Char les City county, 
which then occupied both sides of the River. The Plan 
tation was settled by Sir John Paulett, from whom it 
passed into Uie hands of Theodrick Bland, and then to 
William Byrd, the father of Colonel William Bvrd, the 
founder of Richmond, and one of the most celebrated 
men of his day. The present house was built by Colonel 
Byrd in 1737. On the 4th of January, 1781, Benedict 
Arnold, in command of a force of British troops, landed 
here, marched on Richmond, captured the place, and 
burnt the public stores. Arnold was twice here whilst 
ravaging the James river country. Lord Cornwallis, 
moving from Petersburg to the Peninsula, prior to the 
battle of Yorktown, with the bulk of his army, crossed 
the river at Westover, using the British fleet, and 
probably also Swinyard's ferry, which was then in 
operation on "the King's highway," some miles beloM^ 
the Westover house. 

General Pope and other Union generals had their head- 
quarters here du ring the late war. For generations West- 
over was the homestead of the Selden's, a famous old Vir- 
ginia family, but is now owned by Major A. H. Drewry. 



T. L. ALFRIEND, 

No. 1203 Main St., Richmond, Va. 



WASHINGTON 


LIFE INSURANCE CO. 


OF NEW YORK. 



ASSETS, - - $10,000,000. 

^ 2^ Years in Existence. 

The only Company iwhose dividends are Premium-Paying and Policy- 
Protecting for their full amount, without notice to the insured 
and without medical re-examination. 

ALSO AGENT IN 

Fire, Marine and Steam Boiler Insurance 



-FOR THE- 



PhcBuix Assiirance Company, of London; Germania Fire Insurance Com- 
pany, of New York; Home Insurance Company, of New 
York; Boston Marine Insurance Company, 
of Boston, Mass.; American Steam- 
Boiler Insurance Company, 
of New York. 

Capital represented, over $30,000,000. Deposited with 

State Treasurer, $155,000. 

(58) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 59 

'Wilcox's I^anding-— Fleur de Hundred.— 

The narrow neck of land runuing into the river from 
the (right) shore opposite Wilcox's wharf, is Windmill 
Point— Fleur de Hundred plantation. In 1864 Grant, in 
his movement from Spotsylvania Courthouse to the front 
of Petersburg, laid a poontoon bridge across the river 
from Wilcox's wharf to Windmill Point, and another 
lower down the river at Fort Powhatan, and marched 
his army of 130,000 men over them in forty-eight hours. 

Queen's Creek..— A short distance below Wilcox's 
this stream enters the James. Charles City Courthouse, 
a place famous in colonial, revolutionary, and more 
recent annals, is but a few miles from here. 

VITeyanoke.— This is a fine old colonial homestead 
(on left bank). The house is one mile from the wharf, 
and is only visible from the upper deck of the steamer. 
The house nearer is a modern structure. Weyanoke was 
the scene of a massacre of English settlers by the Indians 

Fort Poi^liatan. — Below Weyanoke wharf and 
where the river narrows, is Weyanoke Point (on the 
left), and Fort Powhatan (on the right). On the left are 
are to be seen, at low tide particularly, the piles or stakes 
out from which Grant's poontoon bridge was laid. 

Fort Powhatan was built during the revolutionary war 
by order of Baron Steuben. Col. Christ. Senf, who had 
been an Engineer in Frederick the Great's service, was 
the military constructor. The bricks were furnished by 
Col. Harrison, of Lower Brandon, and the earthwork 
done by negro slaves. A fleet of British vessels were 



FOURQUREAN, PRIGE & GO., 

429 E. Broad St., 206 & 208 N. Fifth St., 



RICHMOf^D, VA. 




CO 



r o AT t/o 
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Our Sample Department is in oliarge of a capable 

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AND BRIDAI^ XROUSSEAU. 



X- 



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IS always the Largest, Freshest, and B' st 
in SILKS, VELVETS, PLUSHES, DOMES- 
TICS, REX GOODS, CLOTHS AND CAS- 
S I ME RES, NOTIONS, LACES AND 
EMBROIDERIES, DRESS GOODS, LIN- 
ENS, &c. 



X 

Cloaks and Wraps of every Description, including Seal Skin and Astra- 

chan of our own manufacture. Dress Trimmings, Fancy 

Worsteds and Fancy Wares. Agents for 

Butterick's Paper Patterns. Agents 

for Dr. Jseger's Sanitary 

Woolen Goods. 

(60) 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 61 

driven back here in 1781, but General. Phillips lauded 
below, and flanking, took it. The fort was armed and 
garrisoned in the war of 1812. 

In the War of 1861-5 it was a strong Confederate posi- 
tion until the lines were drawn close around Richmond 
and Petersburg, when it fell into the hands of the 
Federals. 

Upper Bran don. — About five miles from Fort 
Powhatan, and on the same (right) side of the river, is 
Upper Brandon, a large and fine old plantation. 

Wilson's Wliarf. — Two miles further on, on the 
left bank, is Wrlson's Wharf, indentified with the move- 
ments of both armies in the late war. The water in the 
channel very near there, as appears from the United 
States Coast Survey, is ninety-five feet deep. 

I^o^^er Brandon. — This house, one of the oldest 
and best on James river, is concealed from view by the 
fine trees by which it is surrounded. It is the home- 
stead of the Harrisons. Here is a gallery of portraits, 
including some collected by Colonel Byrd, and others 
added to them by the Harrisons. 

Clareniont. — Ihipoak Creek enters James river 
(from the right) between Lower Brandon and Claremont. 

Claremont, in Surry county, was the residence and 
and property of the late Major Wm. Allen. The estate 
embraced 13,000 acres of land, bounded on the north by 
James river and on the west by Chipoak creek. It has 
a water frontage of seven miles. This estate was bought 
in 1879 by J. Frank Mancha, of Delaware, who imme- 



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RICHMOND, VA. 

HE MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY, 
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Satisfactory Settlements. Prompt attention to business. 

(62) 




THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 63 

diately subdivided it into over two hundred farnas, 
\^hich he has since sold to northern and western settlers. 
Under this management a village has sprung up of about 
100 houses, eight or ten stores, three hotels three fac- 
tories, two chuiches, a school, &c. The village cannot 
be seen from the river on account of the high bluflf and 
forest trees. 

The village was incorporated in 1885, and has a Mayor 
and council. Mr. Mancha has lately extended his colony 
by a purchase of 8,0( acres more, which is also offered in 
small farms. The property has been divided into numer- 
ous small farms to be sold to settlers. 

Claremont is the terminus of the Atlantic and Dan- 
ville Railroad, which is being rapidly pushed to com- 
pletion. This railroad has already reached Hicksford, 
60 miles distant, and runs through a rich cotton, peanut 
and timber country. It is rapidly extending to Danville, 
Va. 

Full particulars of this mammoth enterprise will be 

cheerfully sent on application by the founder, J. Frank 
Mancha, Claremont, Va. 

Sandy Point.— This place is across the river from 
Claremont. It was settled by Colonel Phillip Lightfoot, 
ancestor of Lighthorse Harry Lee, and General R. E. 
Lee. Part of the old homestead is still standing. The 
present house was built about 1717, and is in good repair. 
There is fine snipe-shooting here. 

Dancing: Point— A Xradition.— The Promon- 
tory at the junction of the Chickahominy with the 
James, is Dancing Point. 



c 



ALBB 




CO 



BREWERS OF 



Pure Hle. 






^^^ 




/fm% ^P 



R 



r Ha_^r 



'^tttiiuti^ tii^ '^»Ma/ 



4j^ tea 



l^i 



Lhger B^er 



wp: make a specialty of 



BOTTLED GOODS, 



DELIVERED IN ANY PART OF THE CITY. 



RICHMOND DEPOT— Broad & Kinney Sts. 



Phones: {^JSJaiiS!^^ 



ROBERT HILL, Jr., Manager, 



(64) 



THE .ta:mp:.s river tourist. 65 

H derives its name from a tradition that was once 
current among sailors on the river. The property was 
owned by a man wlio ma^' be, for this purpose, called 
Lightfoot. On the plantation there was a marsh which ' 
the owner was very desirous of cleaning up, and tra- 
dition says that the sfheme was violently opposed by the 
devil. An interview between his Majesty and Lightfoot 
took place, during which it was agreed that a trial of 
dancing should be held to decide whether the marsh 
should be cleared up or not. The night was appointed 
and the spot chosen. At the hour the parties met, and 
commenced their exercises. Flaming torches and shoot- 
ing stars rising from the swamp lighted the ground upon 
which the contest took place. 

When morning broke the devil retired, and Lightfoot 
discovered that the spot formerly occupied by the swamp 
was a field, high and dry. Lights still float over the 
field at night, and on the ground where the dance took 
place no grass nor herb will grow. A bare spot of a hun- 
dred yards in extent still marks the scene of the strife. 
No freedman's foot crosses this spot after nightfall, and 
no fox seeks here his prey. That's what "they say." 

Xlie CliicUalioniiny.— This river comes into the 
James at Dancing Point. It rises about fifteen miles 
northwest of Richmond. At about five miles of Rich- 
mond it is a small stream flowing througli swampy lands, 
but towards the mouth it becomes navigable for steamers. 



66 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

Captain John Smith, while endeavoring to discover the 
headwaters of the Chickahominy, was captured by the 
Indians, led about the country, between the James and 
Potomac, for several weeks as a prisoner, then carried 
before Powhatan, at his seat on Pamunky (now York 
river), called " Werowicomico," and condemned to 
death, but rescued by the tearful entreaties of Poca- 
hontas. The Chickahominy was an important line in 
the military movements of 1862 and 1864. On or near 
its banks, but within hearing of Richmond, were fought 
the important" battles of Mechanicsville, EUerson's Mill, 
Gaines' Mill, Cold Harbor, Savage's Station, and Seven 
Pines, or Fair Oaks, and dozens of lesser engagements. 

Smith's Rescue by Pocahontas.— Smith's General 
Historic, relating how the Captain, after a gallant 
defence, was captured by the Indians while exploring 
this stream, says that " having feasted him after the best 
barbarous manner they could, a long consultation was 
held, but the conclusion was, two great stones were 
brought before Powhatan. Then, as many as could, 
laid hands on him, dragged him to them, and thereon 
laid his head; and, being ready to beat out his brains, 
Pocahontas, the King's dearest daughter, when no 
entreaty could prevail, got his head in her arms, and 
laid her own upon his to save him from death. Whereat 
the Emperor was content he should live to make him 
hatchets, and her bells, beads, and copper; for they 
thought him as well [skilled] of all occupations as them- 
selves. For the King himself will make his own robes, 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 67 

shoes, bows, pots; plant, hunt, or do anything so well as 
the rest. * - * Two days after Powhatan came to 
him and told him that he should go to Jamestown, to 
send him two great guns and a grindstone, for which he 
would give him the country of Capahowsick, and for- 
ever esteem him as his son Nantaquond. So to James- 
town, with twelve guides, Powhatan sent him. That 
night they quartered in the woods, he still expecting— 
as he had done all the time of imprisonment (six or 
seven weeks)— every hour to be put to one death or 
another, for all their feasting. But Almighty God, by 
his Divine Providence, had mollified the hearts of those 
stern barbarians with compassion. The next morning 
betimes they came to the fort, where Smith, having used 
the savages with what kindness he could, showed Eiiw- 
huut, Powhatan's trusty servant, two demi-culverins 
(cannon) and a millstone to carry Powhatan. They 
found them somewhat too heavy, but when they did see 
him discharge them, being loaded with stones, among 
the boughs of a great tree loaded \vith icicles, the ice and 
branches came so tumblinor down that the poor savages 
ran away half dead with fear. But at la^t we regained 
some conference with them, and gave them such toys, 
and sent to Powhatan, his women and children, such 
presents as gave them in general full content." 

Jamestown, or "James Cittie."— At James- 
town one comes upon the memorials of a long vanished 
past. Here was the first effectual settlement of English 
in America, and here was the first capital of the colony, 



68 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

and the palace of the Royal governors and council who, 
with mimic pride, emulated the grandeur and pageantry 
of Whitehall. The town, or "cittie,"as it was fondly 
called, was laid off into several fair streets. Many of the 
houses were of considerable size and architectural pre- 
tension. 

The tower of the church, seen on the left as the boat 
approaches the wharf, is the only vestige of the colonial 
buildings now standing. 

From Jamestown Captain John Smith went on his 
exploring expeditions to the falls of the James, towards 
the headwaters of the Chickahominy, and up the Chesa- 
peake. 

In 1609, Smith having received a severe wound from 
an explosion of gunpowder, returned to England. The 
next year, the colonists greatly reduced by death and 
famine, abandoned Jamestow^n, "and one day re-em- 
barked for England at noon. Near the mouth of the 
river, the next morning, they met Lord Delaware with 
three ships," bringing reinforcements and provisions, 
and with him thej^ returned to Jamestown. 

Two vears later Pocahontas fill into the hands of the 
colonists under Captain Argall " When she was taken 
to Jamestown a message was sent to Powhatan that he 
must ransom her with certain men and articles, which he 
was accused of having taken. To this the Chieftiau 
made no reply for three months. In the meantime John 
Rolfe had wooed the maiden and obtained her consent 
to marriage." She received Christian baptism under the 




RUINS OF THE OLD CHURCH AT JAMESTOWN. 

One mouldering tower, overgrown with ivy, shows 
Where first Virginia's Capital arose, 
And to the tourist's vision far withdrawn, 
Stands like a sentry at the gates of dawn. 
The church has perished— faint the lines and dim 
Of those whose voices raised the choral hymn ; 
Go read the record on the mossy stone, 
'Tis brief and sad— oblivion claims its own. 

Thompson's Virginia. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 71 

name of Rebecca, and for some time resided at Varina. 
She died in England, leaving one child. Some of the 
proudest Virginia families claim descent from her. 

In 1619 the first legislative assembly in America met 
at Jamestowm. 

About this time a considerable number of young 
women of humble birth, but " pure and incorrupt," 
were sent over here and sold to the planters as wives for 
an amount about equal to their passage money, the price 
being paid in the then currency of the colony, tobacco. 

In 1620, a Dutch ship from Africa arriving at James- 
town, sold to the colonists twenty negro slaves. Thus 
was laid the foundation of negro slavery in America. 
The general massacre of settlers on and near the James, 
occurred March 20th, 1622. Three hundred and forty- 
seven persons w^ere slain. The people of Jamestown, 
receiving a timely warning from afriendl.y Indian, were 
saved. 

1676 Jamestown was burnt during the civil war 
between the patriot colonists under Bacon, and the 
Royal Governor Berkeley. 

In 1698 the capital of the colony was transferred to 
Williamsburg, and Jamestown went into decay. 

The old church, of which the entrance tower remains, 
was not the first erected in the town, but is, neverthe- 
less, of great antiquity. It is surrounded by a grave- 
yard, in which many of the colonists were buried. The 
inscriptions on the tomb-stones are but partly legible. 

''It is difficult," says the author of the British Spy, 



72 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

"to look at this venerable steeple, surrounded as it is 
with these awful proofs of the mortality of man, with- 
out exclaiming in the pathetic solemnity of Shakes- 
peare : 

" The cloud-capped towers, the goigeous palaces, 
The solemn temples, the great globe itself; 
Yea, all which it inherits, shall dissolve. 
And like this insubstantial pageant faded, 
Leave not a wreck behind." 

The breastworks to the left of the church were erected 
by Major Allen, of Claremont, and were occupied bj'^ the 
Confederates until the evacuation of Norfolk and the 
Peninsula between the James and York rivers. 

The house fronting the river was the original residence 
of Governor Berkeley. 

The river below here, where it broadens widely, is 
called Cobham Bay. 

Hog: Island — Homeisvard P. O.— A few miles 
on from Jamestown we come abreast of Hog Island (point 
of land to the right). One of the settlements made 
soon after the landing at Jamestown was there. It is 
owned by E. E. Barney, Esq., formerly of Ohio, who 
has converted it into a large stock farm, and erected 
valuable improvements. 

Kins:'@ Mill Wharf— 'Williamsburg.— On the 
left shore, and nearly opposite Hog Island, is King's 
Mill Wharf. Williamsburg is four miles distant. 

This city was the scat of the Colonial Government 
anterior to and for a short time during the Revolution. 
It was first settled in 1632. The venerable William and 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 73 

Mary College, here founded in 1692, is the oldest educa- 
tional establishment in the United States, except Har- 
vard. An appeal for its relief has been urged before 
Congress, its losses by the war having been some $80,000. 
In the lawn fronting the college is the ancient statue of 
Lord Botetourt, the "popular Governor" of the colony. 

Palace of Lord Dunmore. — The remains of this 
regal domain of the last Eoyal Governors are still to be 
seen on the Main Street. It was accidentally burned by 
French soldiers soon after the surrender of Lord Corn- 
wallis at Yorktown. 

The Old Capitol was also destroyed by fire 1832. 
Some of the arches, half concealed in the green sward, 
are yet to be seen. This was the celebrated " House of 
Burgesses," where Patrick Henry made that famous 
revolutionary speech, ending in the sentence, " 7/' this 
be treason, make the most of it .'^^ 

The Raleigh Tavern, with its historical associations 
and its celebrated Apollo room, has also yielded to the 
ravages of fire, and not a vestige remains to connect the 
present with its eventful past. 

The venerable Episcopal church, one of the oldest in 
Virginia, and the Magazine, or Old Powder-Horn, as it is 
familiarly called, still stand, relics of "ye olden tyme." 
The latter has long since been shorn of its glory, and is 
now utilized as a stable. 

The city is very interesting to tourists, and is well 
worth visiting. 



74 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

Yorktown, on York river, is twelve miles from Wil- 
liamsburg. There Lord Cornwallis surrendered to Wash- 
ington, virtually closing the war for American indepen- 
dence. 

Multoerry Point. — Seven or eight miles from 
King's Mill Wharf, on the same shore, and where the 
river narrows, beyond Deep Water Light, is Mulberry 
Point. 

Here the Jamestown refugees first saw Lord Delaware's 
fleet. Smith's History says : " At noone they fell from 
Jamestown to the isle of hogs, and the next morning to 
Mulberry Point, at which time they descried Lord 
Delaware's long boat, for God would not have the settle- 
ment so abandoned," &c. 

Bur^well's Bay. — A fine sheet of water. Here the 
river is five miles in width. The water is shallow except 
in the channel in which the boats run. 

Between Mulberry Point and Newport News are the 
Point of Shoals Light and White Shoal Light. War- 
wick river enters the James from the left, and Pagan 
creek and Nansemond river from the right. 

Part of Cornwallis' forces crossed here on the march 
to Yorktown in 1781. 

Ferguson's l^liarf is the next landing on the 
south side. It has a thriving railroad formerly run by 
bogies, but now by steam engines, and extends 13 miles. 
Large quantities of peanuts, lumber and merchandise 
are carried over this railroad. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 75 

Turner's 'Wliarf is in sight from Ferguson's. It 
also has a railroad run by locomotives and does a simi- 
larly large business. 

Ne^wport Neijvs.— The point of land extending 
down into the water from the left is Newport News. « 
Pig Point is on the opposite shore. Here is the mcyth 
of James river and the opening into Hampton Roads. 

On a bright day the church spires at Norfolk, four- 
teen or fifteen miles distant, may be seen. Hampton 
and Old Point are also in view. 

Newport News was fortified by the United States 
troops early in the war. 

Off Newport News 8th of March, 1862, was fought 
the great naval battle between the United States vessels 
Congress, Cumberland, Minnesota and St. Lawrence, 
and the Confederate iron-clad ram Virginia (or Merri- 
mac) and the steamers Patrick Henry and Jamestown, 
and two or three small gun-boats. The Virginia ran 
her sharp-pointed prow into the Cumberland (one of the 
very largest ships in the United States navy), and sunk 
her. She went down, carrying with her a great number 
of her officers and crew. When the tide is coming in or 
going out ripples are seen over the spot where her wreck 
yet lies. Any officer of the boat will point them out to 
you. The Congress was disabled, run ashore, surren- 
dered, and was then burned by the Confederates. The 
Federal batteries at Newport News took some part in the 
fight. 



76 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

The victory was a great one for the Confederates. It 
demonstrated that wooden vessels were powerless before 
iron-clads, and revolutionized naval architecture the 
world over. 

* The night after this battle the United States iron-clad 
Monitor arrived in Hampton Roads. Next day there 
was an indecisive fight between her and the Virginia. 

A few months later the Monitor was lost at sea. off 
Cape Hatteras. The Merrimac was blown to pieces by 
the Confederates upon the evacuation of Norfolk. 

The celebrated Confederate cruiser Florida, taken in 
the Port of Bahia, was brought into Hampton Roads 
and sunk near Newport News, pending the demand of 
the Brazilian authorities for her return to Bahia. The 
Brazilians claimed that in her capture the neutrality 
laws had been violated. 

One of the finest hotels in the country has been erected 
here — -'The Warwick" — which is much resorted to by 
tourists. 

Hampfoti. — The town on the left is Hampton. Its 
site was visited by Captain .John Smith in 1607. 

Burk says : "The colonists, while engaged in seeking 
a fit place for the first settlement, met five of the nativ^es, 
who invited them to their town, Kecoughtan, or Kecho- 
ton, where Hampton now stands. Here thej' were feasted 
with cakes made of Indian corn, and regaled with to- 
bacco and a dance." 

The locality was settled in 1610, by people from James- 
town. 



THE JAMES RIVEiR TODRIST. . 77 

There was a considerable battle near the settlement 
between the Indians and whites. 

The town was attacked by the British in the war of 
the Revolution, and also in 1813, and on each occasion 
was valorouslj^ defended. On the first occasion success^ 
fully ; on the second Admiral Cockburn's men got into 
the town and sacked it. 

In 1862 it was burned by the inhabitants and General 
Magruder's Confederate troops. 

In Hampton still stands the pretty little church of St. 
John, built somewhere between 1660 and 1667. This is, 
says Dr. W. P. Palmer, editor of the Calendar of Vir- 
ginia State Papers, and a recognized authority in such 
matters, "One of the few church buildings the bricks of 
which were brought from Eu gland." 

Near Hampton, in the civil war, was the great camp 
for refugee slaves— "contraband of war," as General B. 
F. Butler called them. 

Hampton is a pleasant place to visit at all times. 
Many families from the cities spend their summers here. 
It commands a fine water view. 

Barnes' Hotel, located here, (J. J. Barnes, proprie- 
tor,) is pleasantly situated, has recently been completely 
refitted, and is a popular summer resort. The fare is ex- 
cellent, and the proprietor and his assistants exert them- 
selves to render the guests comfortable. There are 
billiard-rooms and bath-house attached to the hotel. 

"When the fury of an Atlantic storm drives vessel 
after vessel into the secure anchorage of the Roads, until 



78 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

a whole fleet is gathered under the guns of Old Point 
Comfort ; or when, on some bright, breezy morning, 
scores of white-wiuged oyster-boats put out from every 
safe nook of the shore, dotting the sparkling blue of the 
*ay Uke snowy birds ; or, better still, when the fading 
crimson glow of sunset makes the shore shadowy and 
indistinct, and the little flotilla comes tranquilly home- 
ward to the slow dip of oars, and the weird, rich singing 
of the negro boatmen — then one gazes and listens, to 
confess that at last such scenes are hard to rival, and 
that this bit of coast need not fear the verdict of critics 
with whom still lingers the remembrance of Mediterra- 
nean skies or distant tropic seas." So says Mrs. M. F. 
Armstrong, in the interesting little book entitled "Hamp- 
ton and its Students." 

Hampton Institute.— The fine, large brick edi- 
fice, seen as we pass Hampton, is Virginia Hall, the 
main building of the Hampton Normal and Agricultu- 
ral Institute, of which General S. C. Armstrong is prin- 
cipal. It was established in 1868, by donations from the 
Freedmen's Bureau and liberal Northern people, for the 
education of colored girls and boys. 

In 1872 the General Assembly of Virginia assigned to 
the Institute one-third of the Land Script (worth $95,- 
000) received for educational purposes from the United 
States Government. There are now at the Institute 
about three hundred students. Fifty or sixty of these 
are Indian boys and young men from the extreme west- 
ern frontier. Thousands of people from the Hygeia Ho- 
tel visit the Institute. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 79 

The Indians are objects of special interest. 

The plantatation songs of the negro students are de- 
lightful to hear. 

The boys receive military instruction at the hands of 
Captain Henry Rameyn, U. S. A. There are several^ 
work-shops for practical training ; the idea being to fit 
the students for the earnest work of life. 

Soldiers^ Home,— The fine large building, with 
cupola, next seen as we approach Old Point, is the 
National Home for disabled Volunteer Soldiers, built and 
used before the war as a female college. Over seven hun- 
dred veterans now have a comfortable home here. Colo- 
nel P. T. Woodfin is in charge. The grounds are lovely, 
and are a favorite resort for pic-nic parties from Norfolk, 
Portsmouth, Hampton and Old Point. 

Near to the Soldiers's Home is a National Cemetery. 
A fine monument stands as a memorial of the 6,000 men 
who there lie buried. 

The Home, the Hampton Institute, and the town of 
Hampton may be easily and quickly reached from Old 
Point by boat or carriage. 

Old Point Comfort— Fortress Monroe.— 
The name " Poynt Comfort " was given the neck of land 
lying between Chesapeake Bay and Hampton Roads, in 
1607, by the first Colonists, "on account of the good chan- 
nel and safe-anchorage it afforded. " It is called Old Point 
Comfort to distinguish it from New Point Comfort, near 
the mouth of the York river. Its advantages as a defen- 
sive position were at once seen by the settlers, and they 



80 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

built a fort here. A short time previous to the surrender 
of the British at Yorktown, Count De Grasse, the French 
Admiral, threw up some Fortifications at Point Comfort. 

The present Fortress was commenced in 1819, and 
named in honor of President Monroe. It is the largest 
and strongest in this country. Its full armament is 
b tween four and five hundred guns. Fortress Monroe 
was the basis of operations for many of the movements 
against the Confederates in Virginia, North Carolina, 
and more Southern States. 

Hon. Jefferson Davis was for a long time after the close 
of the war imprisoned here. The casemate which was 
his prison is shown to visitors. 

Hygeia Hotel. — The Hygeia Hotel is situated upon 
the beach, near to the wharf, and within one hundred 
yards of the Fortress. It has accommodations for 1,000 
guests, and has all modern improvements— gas and 
electric bells in every room, bath-rooms on each floor, 
elevator, etc. Ten or fifteen steamers land at the wharf 
each day, except Sunday, and there is quick communi 
cation by mail and telegraph with all parts of the 
world. 

The best class of Northern people assemble here in 
winter, and of Southerners in the summer months. 

From the great porticoes of the hotel Capes Henry and 

Charles light-houses (at the points where the Bay joins 
the Atlantic) may be seen day or night without a glass. 

The beach at Old Point is beautiful. It is hard and 

smooth, and the shore declines into the water so gradu- 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 83 

ally that bathers may secure any depth they may desire. 
The surf dashes almost up to the hotel steps— a great 
advantage— as the ladies can walk from the dressing- 
rooms in the hotel right out into the water. There 
is no undertow, and no dangerous current to excite fears 
of accident, while the water is almost as salty and strong 
as in mid ocean. The guests enjoy the bathing free from 
any restrictions except the conventional bathing-dress. 

There are plenty of boats on hand to be hired to fish- 
ing parties, or for excursions to the Bip-Raps, Soldiers' 
Home, Hampton Institute, or town of Hampton. 

There also several pretty carriage drives. 

The parade ground within Fortress Monroe is delight- 
fully shaded with live oaks. The famous Artillery 
School has its establishment within the Fortress, and 
the guard-mount and dress-parade, with the music of a 
fine band each morning and evening, give the visitors a 
pleasure rarely found at the seaside, or at any other 
resort. 

The fare is excellent, as the hotel is within easy reach 
of the Norfolk, Richmond and Baltimore markets, and 
is in the midst of a great oyster and fish-producing coun- 
try. The hotel is open all the year. 

The climate during the year is unsurpassed for salu- 
brity. The range of the thermometer here for the past 
ten years, as taken from the notes of the Meteorological 
Observatory, shows an average of 60°, 70°, 76° in sum- 
mer ; 70°, 59°, 46° in autumn ; 45°, 44°, 42° in winter ; 48° 
52°, 63° in the spring months. 



84 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

Rip Raps.— Going from Old Point to Norfolk, im- 
mediately after starting, you pass to the right of the Rip 
Raps— first called Fort Calhoun ; afterwards Fort Wool. 

" The channel which leads in from the Capes of Virgi- 
nia to Hampton Roads," says Martin's Gazetteer, "is at 
Old Point Comfort reduced to a very narrow line. The 
shoal water, which, under the action of the sea, and re- 
acted upon by the bar, is kept in an unremitting ripple, 
has given the name of Rip Raps." 

Fort Calhoun — or the Rip Raps, as it is conimonly 

• 

called — wa?, in conjunction with Fortress Monroe, ex- 
pected to completely bar the entrance of Hampton Roads 
to the shipping of the foreign enemy. It is built upon 
an island formed of stones brought from long distances 
at great cost. It has never Vjeen completed, and proba- 
bly never will be, since it cannot be made effective as 
against iron-clads. 

The extremity of land south of the Rip Raps is Wil- 
loughby's Point. 

Se"well's Point. — The next prominent projection 
of the land from the left is Sewell's Point. The Con- 
federates, strongly fortified here, had several sharp en- 
gagements with the United States gunboats in 1861 and 
1862. 

Craney Island. — This place (to the right, where 
the large brick buildings are seen,) is five mile from 
Norfolk. The Government powder magazines are located 
here. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 85 

In 1813 the British, under Admiral Cockburn, attacked 
the Virginia troops defending Craney Island, and were 
most signally' defeated, and Norfolk and Portsmouth 
were thus saved. 

Near here, upon the evacuation of Norfolk by the 
Confederates in 1862, the iron-clad Virginia (Merrimac) 
was blown up, her draft of water being too great to 
enable her to get to Richmond. 

Fort IVorfolk — Marine Hospital.— When 
about to enter the superb harbor of Norfolk and Ports- 
mouth, we pass to the left of Fort Norfolk, and to the 
right of the Marine Hospital. The latter is in the midst 
of a grand natural park. 

Norfolk.— As you steam into the harbor, Norfolk is 
to the left and Portsmouth to the right— the Elizabeth 
river dividing them. They are called the " Twin Sisters 
bytheSea." Observing the precept, "Emulation without 
envy," they are both increasing in population, wealth, 
and industrial and commercial importance. Here is a 
lovely climate. The Gulf Stream, which touches the 
Virginia shore, robs the atmosphere of its frostiness in 
winter, and the heats of summer are kindly tempered 
by the fresh breezes from the sea. 

The colonists early foresaw the advantages of Norfolk 
as a seaport, and it was established as a town in 1705. 
Among its many objects of interest is " Old St. Paul's 
church," the mother church of Elizabeth-River Parish, 
the most ancient edifice in the city, built of imported 
brick in 1739. During the war of 1776 the British robbed 



86 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

the church, carrying the communion plate of silver, to 
Scotland. On the south corner may now be seen, half 
imbedded in the bricks, a small cannon ball, which was 
fired from the frigate Liverpool, of the British fleet, 
when the town was bombarded and destroyed. This 
church was about the only building that escaped destruc- 
tion, and the people have refused to alter its exterior, 
permitting it to remain as a landmark of "old times." 
People fond of good eating will especially be pleased 
with Norfolk and Portsmouth. The earliest vegetables 
and fruits reach these markets, and the finest oysters 
and fish here abound. 

Norfolk has a population of 30,000, and is now the 
second cotton port in the United States. The Liverpool, 
Memphis and Norfolk Steamship Line dispatch steamers 
direct to Liverpool during the cotton season. 

The operations of the great steam cotton presses (by 
which the bale of the planter is reduced to about one- 
third of its original size) are interesting to witness. Nor- 
folk and Portsmouth ship immense quantities of truck, 
oysters and fish to the markets in Northern cities. Nor- 
folk is the headquarters of the North Atlantic squad- 
ron, and the flag-ship, the old-fashioned but comfortable 
steam frigate Powhatan, spends most of her time in the 
harbor, adding to the pleasure and gaiety of the port by 
its fine band. The Receiving-ship Franklin has also a 
superior band, that discourses fine music. The numerous 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 87 

visits of our own and foreign men-of-war contribute 
much, to tiie social life of Norfolk, which is proverbially 
agreeable and enjoyable. 

The drives to Ocean View, Water-Works, Bowden's 
Ferry, etc., are very pleasant. 

Norfolk has several first-class hotels. 

Portsmoutti. — Immediately opposite Norfolk (and 
connected therewith by a steam ferry) is the city of 
Portsmouth, established in 1752. In common with Nor- 
folk it possesses one of the best harbors in the world, in 
which the vessels of our navy are generally lying at 
anchor. Its commodious water-front affords berths for 
the largest ships. 

In the centre of the city, on one of its principal streets, 
the ladies have erected a monument of Southern granite 
to the Confederate dead of Portsmouth. 

Here, in 1775, Dunmore, the Royal Governor, a fugi- 
tive from Williamsburg, erected his standard. In 1780 
the traitor, Arnold, had his headquarters at Portsmouth. 

The United States Navy-yard, one of the largest and 
best, is directly on the southern extremity of the city, 
about half a mile from its centre, in that portion called 
Gosport, where the General Government has built a large 
dry dock of Richmond granite, costing one million of 
dollars, and capable of admitting the largest ships. It is 
fitted up with all the latest modern machinery. Work 
done here, it is claimed, is superior to that of any other 
yard. 



88 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

Population of Portsmouth bj^ Census of 1880, 11,388. 

Norfolk and Portsmouth are connected with the South 
and Southwest by railroad, and by first-class steamers 
with the chief seaboard cities of the country. Rich- 
mond is reached by James river by the Virginia Steam- 
boat Company Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 
leaving Norfolk at 6:30 A. M. New York is twenty-two 
hours distant by water. Philadelphia is eighteen hours 
distant ; Clyde steamships leave Mondays, Wednesdays 
and Saturdays at 7 P. M. Baltimore, twelve hours ; 
Bay Line steamers leave daily, except Sunday, at 6 P. 
M. Washington, twelve hours ; Tuesdays, Thursdays 
and Saturdays, 4 P. M. Boston, forty -eight hours; Tues- 
days and Fridays, 3 P. M. Providence, Wednesdays 
and Saturdays, 1 P. M. ; also by Clyde Line, tri-weekly, 
and to Fall River. Old Point, al>out three-quarters of an 
hour by the Virginia Steamboat Company's fast steamer 
Ariel, is touched at both ou inward and outward trip 
from Norfolk, during the summer season, and by other 
steamers ; consequently'^ passengers can reach that de- 
lightful summer and winter resort frequently during the 
day. 

The locks of the Dismal Swamp canal are only five 
miles distant, and Lake Drummond about twenty. 
. A line of steamers leave for points on both the Dismal 
Swamp and Albemarle and Chesapeake canals on alter 
nate days — the latter on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fri- 
days, at 6 A. M ; the former on Tuesdays, Thursdays 
and Saturdays, at same hour. 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 89 

Berkeley,— This is a beautiful little village, situated 
at the head of the harbor of Norfolk and Portsmouth, 
between the two cities, and connected with them by a 
steam ferry. Many of the merchants have made their 
homes here, and it is rapidly growing in population and 
wealth. 

A number of lumber and other mills are here doing a 
flourishing business. 

I^ake Drummond has a world-wide reputation, 
gained in part by the poem by Tom Moore (written by 
him while on a visit to Norfolk), entitled " The Lake of 
the Dismal Swamp." 

It is based on a story told of a young man who lost his 
mind upon the death of the girl he loved, "and who, 
suddenly disappearing from his friends, was never after- 
wards heard of. As he had frequently said in his ravings 
that the girl was not dead, but gone to the Dismal 
Swamp, it is supposed that he wandered into that dreary 
wilderness, and had died of hunger, or been lost in some 
of its dreadful morasses." Moore makes the young man 
say: 

" They made her a grave too cold and damp, 

For a soul so warm and true : 
And she Is gone to the Lake of the Dismal Swamp, 
Where all night long by a fire-fly lamp, 

She paddles her white canoe." 

" And her fire-fly lamp I soon shall see. 

And her paddle I soon shall hear ; 
Long and loving our life shall be, 
And I'll hide the maid in a cypress tree, 

When the footstep of Death ia near I " 



90 THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 

Away to the Dismal Swamp he speeds— 

His path was rugged and sore ; 
Through tangled juniper, beds of reeds, 
Through many a fen, where the serpent feeds, 

And man never trod before. 

And when on the earth he sunk to sleep, 

If slumber his eyelids knew, 
He lay, where the deadly vine doth weep 
Its venomous tear, and nightly steep 

The flesh with blistering dew ! 

And near him the she-wolf stir'd the brake. 
And the copper-snake breath'd in his ear, 
Till he starting cried, from his dream awake, 
" Oh ! when shall I see the dusky lake, 
» And the white canoe of my dear? " 

He saw the Lake and a meteor bright 

Quick over its surface played— 
" Welcome," he said, "my dear one's light," 
And the dim shore echoed for many a night 

The name of the death-cold maid ! 

Till he hollowed a boat of the birchen bark, 

Which carried him off from shore ; 
For he followed the meteor spark— 
The wind was high, and the clouds were dark, 

And the boat returned no more. 

But oft from the Indian Hunter's camp 

This lover and maid so true 
Are seen at the hour of midnight damp 
To cross the lake by a fire-fly lamp, 

And paddle iheir white canoe. 

Finis or Preface. — These lines will speed the 
parting or welcome the coming reader. 

The book begins with Richmond and describes the 
points of greatest interest as the steamer moves on down 



THE JAMES RIVER TOURIST. 91 

the river. The reader who starts from Norfolk to Rich-, 
mond, therefore needs to make " the last first," and 
begin at the end of the book. Th|^e will be no difficulty 
in fixing upon the localities mentioned if such person 
but remember to look to the left when the book points 
him to the rights or vice versa. 




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